I’ve been asked several times recently about this so thought I would put down here my own experience and thoughts about preparing fine wool, (in this case my own Bowmont) , for hand spinning, felting or anything else which requires teasing apart the staples.

By fine wool I’m talking Merino type of 21 microns or less. If you use the old Bradford Count system that is 70’s or above. (NB- using micron measurements, the LOWER the figure the finer the wool. Using Bradford Count – the HIGHER the figure the finer the wool! Just to confuse everyone!)

Officially categorised by the Australian Wool Board, Superfine Merino is less than 18.5 microns .Bradford Count 100’s and above. Ultrafine is 17.5 microns or120’s and above. If you don’t have any proof that your Merino wool has been tested by the Australian WB then be wary of it being labelled as “Extra Fine” or “Finest” or anything else. Even the terms “Superfine” and “Ultrafine”, although they have a technical specification to those in the know are not legally protected in connection with Merino.

You should, when buying Merino type wool for spinning be able to ask your retailer exactly what the micron count is of the wool. If they can’t or won’t tell you then either go elsewhere or accept that you are are very unlikely to be getting a true fine product. People often don’t realise that much  Merino sold in this country is not particularly fine. 23-24 microns (BC 64’s) is fairly typical.  Do ask questions whenever you are buying Merino. It will help you enormously in your processing of the fibre.

Above 21microns, ie for wool not classified as Superfine and just sold as “ordinary” Merino, my experience is that you can treat this much as any other wool but with a couple of  modifications. Use fine rather than standard hand carders, or a fine toothed drum carder and treat the wool gently. “Brushing a baby’s head” is the action as it was described to me and I can’t think of a better description. People who say in a very cavalier fashion that you can hand card any  Merino with ordinary standard carders have probably  never actually handled the Super or Ultra fine categories or they would know the difference.

Between 21 microns (70’s and above) and 19 you MAY get away with this treatment if you are incredibly patient and gentle. However, in the Superfine/Ultrafine classings (18.5 microns and below)  I would never card either by hand or by drum carder however fine the carding cloth.The wool is just too fine.

Most of my Bowmont classifies the same as Superfine Merino ie 18.5 microns and below so I have plenty of experience doing this.  I have tried, (believe me!) to handcard and drum card using the Pat Green Deb’s Deluxe specifically meant for very fine fibres and both were not good results despite much practice and advice seeking from people far more experienced than me.  It is just so fine that the teeth in these devices just drag the fibres around, breaks them and causes pilling and bobbling.

My solution is combing. Either large English type combs or the smaller hand held viking type. I find either works very well. The wool is teased apart gently with far less disruption to the structure of the staple. Again, gentleness and patience is the key but if you have bought an expensive, luxury wool then you will want to treat it accordingly!

Another alternative (and one which I do more and more ) is not to comb at all with this very fine wool. Wash the staples and then spin direct from the cut (butt) end of each staple. This will give you a worsted spin (which I prefer for my purposes) but I have no doubt with a well washed staple you could spin from the side and get a true woollen spin.

I must emphasise here that these are my experiences based on exceptionally fine wool. If you have hand or drum carded Merino (unblended) of 18.5microns or below and done it sucessfully then do share it with us!